The Sketch and Wax Model
The first step in the process of making custom made jewelry is usually doing a sketch of the piece to be made. The next step in the custom jewelry process is the carving of the wax model.
Rings start out as wax tubes and pendants begin as wax sheets or blocks. Saws, files, and specialized carving tools are used to cut away the wax or sculpt the design. The first two pictures depict this process.
Measurements are taken and the design is first scratched in the surface of the wax. As in most sculpture what is not needed is removed. Once the wax is carved then sprues or wax wires are added which will be attached to a rubber base. The wax is weighed and multiplied by a factor to see how much gold or other metal will be needed to make a complete cast.
The Rubber Base and Metal Flask
The wax model is then attached to the rubber base using the sprue. More than one model can be attached to each base if needed. A metal flask is then put into the rubber base.
The Burnout
The rubber base is removed and the flask is placed in an oven. This burn out process takes about six to eight hours to complete and reaches a temperature of 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. After a few hours the flask is taken out of the oven and molten gold or sterling silver is poured into the investment where the wax model once was. The metal then cools and hardens.
Cut, File, Sand and Polish
The sprues are then removed and the metal is smoothed with files and sanded. The piece is then polished and given any finishes that are needed such as texturing or antiquing. Any stones are set in the jewelry design. This completes the custom jewelry making process. The results is a finished custom ring or pendant that will always have special meaning to the person that wears it.
